Saturday, 12 January 2013

OUGD401 : Context of Practice - Fashion as Photography

Catalogue/product photography
- Looking at the relationship between photographer and model

  • Ghost Mannequin - The still life of photography
  • First permanent photograph - Nicephore
  • Louis Daguerre - Silver nitrate process, Boulevard de temple 1838/9, first photograph of a person
  • William Henry Fox Talbot - Invented a fixing process
  • Calatype - Reproducable
  • Lady Alice Mary Kerr's portrait of Wilfred 
  •  Photograph people and fashion
  • Countess Di Castiglione: Virginia Oldoini photographed by Adolphe Braun1856 - Theatrical photos
  • Photographed by Pierson 1861 -1867: Pushing boundaries, fragmenting
  • Age of the fashion magazine  - Photography replaced illustrations
  • Paul Poiret (1879 - 1944) - House of worth, freedom from corsetory, first person to to put labels into clothing
  • Adolf De Meyer, 1920 - Pose: Wistful, acting out of character, natural theme
  • Martin Munkacsi 1930s - advent of modernism, testing camera capabilities
Steichen
  • Switches from pictorial style to modernist style
  • Clothing is structural 
  • Lighting 
  • Images reflect modernist lifestyle
1938 - Photography starts to appear on covers - La mode

Vogue Vs. Harpers Bazaar - Leaders in fashion photography
  • Hoyningen: Heune 1931 - Fluidity, flow, inspired by Greek, Angelic feel, Model is mythical beauty and 'unreachable'
  • Horst P Horst: Designed costume for Salvador Dali's "Dream Venus" 1939 - reflects surrealism

Cecil Beaton (1904 -1980)
  • British Vogue and Vanity Fair
  • 'Bright young things' 
  • Photographed British Royals
  • Prolific diarist
  • Designed sets, lighting, costume for broadway
Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930s
  • Placed her in the wings 
  • Star not in the limelight
  • Glimpse into glamorous lifestyle
Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton 
  • British aristocrat
  • Bohemian Friend
Queen Elizabeth II in 1968 
  • Setting references world
  • Opulant
  • Camera confirms status
Lee Miller (1907 - 1977)
  • Fashion model
  • Took up photography
  • Avant Garde
Miller's Photos
  • Influenced by surrealism 
  • Both sides of the camera
  • War correspondant - Crosses worlds; Harsh documentary and Glamourous
Louise Dahl Wolfe - Night Bathing 1939
  • Sculpture included in photos
  • Takes model out of the studio
  • Classical female figure
  • Suzy Parker - Contrast between figure in the foreground and figure in he background
Colour Photography - Not common in fashion photography

William Klein, 1950
  • Documentary photography
  • Lone lense
  • Models interacting with the street
  • Capturing reaction 
  • Contrast - One in black and one in white
  • Playful - Playing with real life
Relationship between photography and pop culture
  • Reflecting swinging London
  • David Bailey - Self taught
  • Terance Donovan - Town magazine, spy drama, influenced by film and the "British" character
  • Jean Shrimpton - Girl next door, accessible 
Richard Avedon
  • Harpers Bazaar 
  • Moves away from 'static' photography
  • Tina Turner - Movement
  • In the American west - documentary project 
  • Large format camera
Helmut Newton 
  • Objectification of the female body 
  • Multiple viewpoints
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan shoes 
  • Extreme fragmentation of the body
  • Inspired by surrealism 
Casual street photograph
  • Jamel Shabazz back in the days
i-D magazine 
  • Straight up photography - Wink
  • Real people
  • DIY fashion
  • Face magazine - alternative fashion photography
'Herion Chic' - Dark

Juergen Tellar (1964)
  • Works with high end designers
  • fashion shoot which looks like documentary
Corrine Day 
  • Crosses fashion and documentary photography
  • Kate Moss cover creating the beginnings of trend for 'waif' look
  • Tara: Documentary project - deterioration 
Adobe Photoshop
  • End of gritty realism
  • Digital image manipulation
  • First launched in 2003
  • Remove 'distractions' on cover
  • Terry Richardson -Worked with hyper-real body modified using photoshop or surgery
  • Nick Knight - Futuristic body
  • Fashion blogging - Everybody can be street/fashion photographer
  • Real people have access to glamourous lifestyle

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